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I tried finding some ABS piping which is recommended for this project but apparently Michigan is all out of it.  So I settled with some gray electrical PVC pipe, which I think will work just fine.  You need to find piping that is the same outside diameter as your coil spring for this to work properly, mine has an outside diameter of 1″.  You will need a pipe cutter or hack saw to cut the pipe.

1. Acquire the proper tool for removing the load adjustment, some can be taken off with a wrench/crescent wrench and some need a special tool like this.

2.  First adjust the load to it’s softest setting prior to removing it.   Remove the load adjustment dial from the top of the fork by unscrewing it.

3.  Slightly compress the fork so the top portion of the coil spring is exposed.

4.  Removed the white cap (color/appearance may vary) from the top of the spring.  It should pop off fairly easy.  (I recommend taking this cap with you when getting the pipe to assure a proper fit)

5.  Cut a section of your pipe making sure it is nice and flat on each side.  The recommend length is 5-10mm (I went with 10mm).  Once you cut your pipe use sand paper to smooth both ends of the pipe.  It should look similar to this.

6.  Now take some access grease from your coil spring and coat the entire piece of pipe and place it on top of the spring.  Once it is in place and looks flush with the spring place the cap on the top of the pipe like so.

7.  Finally, extend your fork back out so the coil spring retracts back into the fork.  Place your load adjustment dial back on and re tighten it.

Once your load adjustment dial is firmly back in place you are all set to adjust the firmest of your fork, which should be firmer than before.  The total cost of this project was 83 cents.

(Caution!  This may not be a good idea for all forks, it’s best to check with the manufacturer prior to doing this.)

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One Comment

  1. Thanks! Very informative and the pictures really help. Good idea.


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